When packaging your BSF eggs for shipping, take into account the temperature, the moisture, the food for the nearly-born babies & the movement shock along the way. Let's see some packaging ideas so your customers can get the eggs in whole & the larvae can survive the journey well. Then, you can worry less about replacements or refunds.
Some common issues
When a customer opens a poorly-packed egg box, they may get the issue of the eggs clumping up or sticking to the side of the box. Obviously, this is egg loss for their money. This is a humidity issue that may stem from a substrate that is too wet.
As you can see here, the little eggs & young hatchlings stick around the wall of the jar, making it hard to get them out. What customers may have to do here is just leave the jar on the feeding bed so the larvae will naturally march out. This creates some inconvenience for those who want to separate the eggs for their use-cases.
If the box is placed together with other shipments in a warm or hot area during transit, the moisture inside may evaporate out. Some substrate like chicken feed or rice bran may have a salt content in their water vapor. If there is no spacing between your eggs & the water vapor, it might cause the eggs to turn blackened & rotted.
Finally, as post offices sometimes have delays during shipping, it's better if you prepare a good amount of food inside the box. So even when there's a 10 days or 2-week delay, the hatchlings will have some food in there to survive. BSF larvae are really tough guys & they won't be knocked out easily once hatched.
As we see here these guys have been in the box for about 8 days. Although they are much smaller than the ones that are better-fed, they are still very much active & alive.
- Good food for the BSF babies for a minimum 10 days
- Spacing to lessen contact with water vapor
- Fluffy moist substrate but not too wet
- Shock-absorbent to reduce impact during bumpy roads
- Air for the BSF to breath
Making the substrate
To make the substrate, you can use chicken feed, rice bran, cornmeal, spent barley or any that's readily available for cheap in your local area.
If you use chicken feed, it's good to soak it in water for about 4-5 days. We don't mix it around to make sure it doesn't turn too thick or soupy. After that you can check if it's good by taking some on your hands. If it feels moist & is fluffy, then the substrate is ready.
The thing about some rice bran is the pesticide residue remaining from the rice-growing process. Some egg sellers have experienced dead eggs because of the residue airing out from the bran. So check with your sources to make sure it's usable.
The good thing about using cornmeal is that it provides a moist, smooth surface for the eggs to lay on. This keeps the eggs from clumping up with each other. Cornmeal wicks excess moisture quite well. So we can worry less about the moisture issue. It also helps the eggs not sticking too much to a side of the box.
Depending on the size of the order, a good amount of substrate to prepare can be:
|Amount of substrate||Amount of eggs|
|200 grams||50 grams|
|7 oz||1.7 oz|
With this amount of starter feed, the babies will be able to survive in the box for days. You can adjust it to better suit your needs.
Spacing & moisture absorbent
For spacing & absorbing moisture, you can simply use napkins and add the eggs layer by layer. Some people use poly-fill (or artificial cotton) for spacing. The hatchlings can't eat this stuff. Some customers complain that this material sort of makes the new hatchlings cling to the polyester fibers too much & creates some clumpy clusters. It's difficult to separate the tiny creatures & the fibers out.
So eventually they switch to using natural cotton. It serves a double purpose of spacing & can be the food for the larvae when hatched. There won't be any clingy issues in this case.
If you use cornmeal & natural cotton spacers, you can pack them in the box layer by layer (starting from the bottom) like this:
|Packing eggs with cornmeal & cotton spacers|
At the bottom, we put cornmeal, then the eggs and then the cotton. You can then work the levels up from there depending on how many grams you're selling.
If you use chicken feed & napkin spacers, you can try:
|Packing eggs with chicken feed & napkin spacers|
|Thick cardboard piece|
|200 grams chicken feed|
The thick cardboard piece will help separate the eggs from the feed. Together with the napkins, it can help absorb any excess moisture. Then we can keep stacking on until the required egg amount is reached.
On the lid of box, cut out some opening. This will help let oxygen in & create a good air flow around. It makes sure the eggs won't get steamed. Before putting the lid on, place a piece of fabric over the box. A darker color one is good to keep direct sunlight out when the outer packaging is opened.
To keep the egg jar in place, nudge some newspaper pieces around the empty space in the bigger box (where we put the egg jar in). You can use tissue paper, bubble wraps or the Styrofoam packing peanuts. Some post offices offer these shipping supplies for very cheap. You can find them online as well.
The finished egg jar
Your finished egg box may look something like this (or even much better):
|Space outside egg box||The lid with a hole||Space outside egg box|
|Newspapers||Piece of fabric||Newspapers|
The daily egg yield for some farms is about 100-150 grams. For bigger farms, this can be up to 1 kilo or more a day. If you want to make sure the customers receive a good amount of egg with less loss, then pack about 5-10% more of the ordered amount. Some egg sellers do this to ensure the highest satisfaction for the customers.
It's not terribly difficult to ship your BSF eggs to your customers right?!. If you keep in mind some notes about the humidity, temperature, food & shocks, you'll be all set to deliver quality products to a lot of people with less frustration & disappointment. It's a really good feeling. Hope you'll enjoy & have good success with your business.
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